The Bus to Villa Tunari 6/22/2006 1:29:04 PM Link | | Add comment  | | Emma and Nida, Mario's daughter |
9th March 2006
We flew into Cochabamba airport from La Paz at 7.30 a.m. and got a taxi from there to the bus station. Unfortunately it was the wrong bus station so we rang Michael and got directions to give to our next taxi driver. This guy was a little old man and an extremely imaginative driver who offered to drive us all the way to VillaTunari and, although we considered it for a minute, we decided we'd better stick to the original plan (which we were glad about when we saw the mountain roads, as he nearly crashed three times on the way to the bus station!).
We'd been told to travel to Villa Tunari with a bus company called 7 de junio but when we went to their kiosk we were informed that they didn't have any buses at all for some reason we couldn't fathom, so we went with another company, 14 de septiembre (the bus companies for some reason are all named after dates - they also have 'interesting' pictures of women inside). When we arrived at the Castillo Michael told us that we would have been the first gringas on that bus for years, if ever!
The bus journey was unnerving and tiring, although the people were perfectly nice if a little perplexed by our presence. The scenery was amazing but the roads were at times extremely precarious. The bus driver was thankfully very cautious and used his brakes almost constantly for the five hours it took us to arrive. The bus stopped about four times for food and toilets, although mostly people went to the toilet by the side of the road. Everytime the bus stopped campesinos would come running up to the windows carrying little plastic bags with refrescos (squash) or rice with chicken or fish to sell to the passengers for a few bolivianos.
The bus journey from Cochabamba on the big coaches takes five hours, on the micros (mini-buses) it takes three. The drivers of the big coaches tend to be more cautious than those of the micros, who are very fond of overtaking, even (or especially) on precarious roads round corners. I haven't seen an accident yet but other people I've met have seen buses just going over the sides of the roads. These accident blackspots often have crosses erected to mark the place - unfortunately when drivers go past these they cross themselves, which means that they drive through the most dangerous places with only one hand on the wheel! At times when you look out of your window on the wider buses all you can see is the view down which does make you wish you hadn't looked (although I always poked Sam and showed her for the comedy reaction...)!
We stopped at the main police checkpoint halfway through the journey and the police/soldiers got on board to check everybody's i.d.cards and yellow fever certificates. Anyone without a certificate was given an injection then and there on the side of the road. Sam says that if she'd known she wouldn't have bothered paying for it in England...personally I would rather not get forcibly vaccinated with a probably used needle by a scary soldier at the side of the road. I'm pretty sure they wouldn't give you a lollipop afterwards, let alone a pat on the head.
They asked to see our passports so we gave them photocopies but they insisted on seeing the real thing, which they promptly relieved us of, leaving us extremely nervous because of all the horror stories we'd heard. Fortunately they gave them back without incident and the bus ambled on. Half of the road from Cochabamba to Villa Tunari (which is the main road of the country) is paved flat, some is cobbled and a fair bit is speckled with rocks from recent landslides. If all of the road was paved the journey would probably take less than two hours.
At the start of the journey I'd asked a woman in my pidgin Spanish to tell us when we got to the Castillo - all we knew was that it was after Villa Tunari. She assured me that she would tell us, however when we got to Villa Tunari I asked her again and she said she had no idea! Fortunately at the next stop we had to get off - it was another police checkpoint so everybody had to. A ferocious looking female soldier asked us where we were going, we told her and she asked us who we were seeing there so, worried, we told her 'Michael' - at which point she laughed, said 'I'll get him for you' and rand across the road to what turned out to be The Castillo...
Emma Feely England
(Emma and Sam came to the Castillo together. During their stay they looked after four orphans who were staying with us. We are not an orphanage, but these girls needed a place to stay for a while and we couldn't turn them away. Emma tells about their journey to Villa Tunari and Sam follows with the rest of their story. *Emma and Sam enjoyed a once in a lifetime occurance. Their story is unique to the stories of the rest of our volunteers. We do not accept orphans on a regular basis and there is no chance of volunteers working with orphans in the future.) |